Dash Cam Install: At a Glance
Getting a front and rear dash cam installed professionally can cost $80 to $200. Most people can do it themselves in 60 to 90 minutes with no special training and the kit that comes in the box. The DashView 60R includes everything — rear camera, 64GB SD card, hardwire kit, mount brackets, and cigarette lighter charger. The longest step is routing the rear camera cable. For parking mode, hardwiring to the fuse box is required — the one step some beginners hand to a professional.
Uniden DashView — How-To Guide
How to Install a Dash Cam Yourself: Front and Rear
Skip the $200 install fee. Here's everything you need to do it yourself in under 90 minutes.
A dash cam is one of the most useful things you can add to your car. In an accident, it proves your version of events. Parked outside, it watches your vehicle when you can't. On the road, it catches footage of near-misses, potholes, and anything else you might need later.
The barrier most people hit is installation — specifically, what to do with the rear camera cable and whether hardwiring is too complicated. This guide removes both concerns. We'll cover the plug-in install first (the easy version), then the hardwired install for parking mode, using the Uniden DashView 60R as the reference throughout.
Quick Answer
In the Box
What Comes in the DashView 60R Box
Before you start, confirm you have everything. The DashView 60R includes all the hardware you need for a full front and rear installation without buying anything extra.
Before You Start
Tools You Will Need
Plastic pry tool for removing A-pillar and door seal trims without scratching. A flat-head screwdriver wrapped in tape works in a pinch.
Thin, stiff wire for pushing the rear camera cable behind trim panels. A wire clothes hanger straightened out works well.
LED-style fuse tester to identify which fuse slots are switched (turn off with ignition) vs constant (always live). Available at Supercheap Auto.
Clean the windscreen mount position before applying the adhesive. Greasy glass = bracket falls off.
The Plug-In Install
No hardwiring. 30–45 minutes. Daily driving coverage.
Insert and check the SD card
Push the 64GB SD card into the slot on the side of the front camera unit until it clicks. The DashView 60R ships with the card pre-formatted, but it's worth confirming it seats correctly before you mount anything. The card cannot be removed once the camera is mounted and the cable is routed — so check now.
Choose the front camera position
The DashView 60R is designed to sit behind the rear-view mirror, hidden from the exterior view. Position the camera so:
- The lens points straight ahead and sits just below or beside the mirror housing
- The mirror itself does not obstruct the 150-degree lens view
- You can still see clearly through the windscreen from the driver's seat
- The unit is within the swept area of the windscreen wipers
Clean and mount the bracket
Use the IPA wipe to clean the windscreen at the chosen position and let it dry for 60 seconds. Peel the backing off one of the adhesive mount brackets, press it firmly to the glass, and hold for 30 seconds. The adhesive is the same 3M tape used in automotive trim applications and will hold permanently.
Slide the DashView 60R onto the bracket. The camera is removable from the bracket, so you can take it out of the car if needed — but the bracket stays on the glass.
Connect the rear camera cable to the front unit
The DashView 60R uses a USB-C splitter cable. This is the cable that connects both power (from the cigarette lighter) AND the rear camera into a single USB-C port on the front camera. Plug the male USB-C end into the front camera, leaving the female USB-C socket (for power) and the small proprietary rear camera connector exposed.
Route and hide the front power cable
The 3-metre cigarette lighter cable plugs into the female USB-C port on the splitter and runs to the cigarette lighter socket. The goal is to hide the cable by tucking it behind the headliner, down the A-pillar trim, and along the door sill to the centre console where the socket sits.
- Use a flat plastic tool (or your finger) to push the cable into the gap between the headliner and the windscreen frame — it'll tuck in 2–3cm and hold there
- Peel the A-pillar trim back slightly (it clips on and comes off without tools on most modern cars) and feed the cable down behind it
- Run the cable along the door sill cover, tucked under the lip, to the cigarette socket
Run the rear camera cable to the back of the vehicle
This is the most time-consuming step — and the one that separates a clean install from a messy one. The rear camera cable runs from the front camera, along the headliner, down the C-pillar (or D-pillar on wagons/SUVs), to the rear windscreen. On most cars this is 3–5 metres of cable.
Top driver-side corner of the front windscreen
Tuck cable along the top of the windscreen and across the headliner — right or left side, whichever is less visible from your seat
Drop cable behind the B-pillar trim panel. Remove the trim by pulling firmly — it clips on. Feed the cable behind it.
Continue behind the rear pillar trim down toward the rear of the vehicle
Emerge from behind the trim at the top corner of the rear glass, where the rear camera mounts
Mount and connect the rear camera
Clean the rear windscreen at the mount position — top centre, angled slightly downward to capture vehicles behind. Apply the second adhesive bracket, hold for 30 seconds, then slide the rear camera onto the bracket and connect the rear camera cable to the proprietary connector on the splitter cable.
Power up and verify both cameras
Plug the cigarette lighter cable into the socket. The DashView 60R powers on automatically when it receives power — you'll hear the startup voice prompt. Both the front and rear cameras should activate. The unit will begin recording to the SD card immediately.
Setting Up the DashView App
The DashView 60R has no screen. Access footage, settings, and live view through the free app.
Download the Uniden DashView app
Search "Uniden Dash View" in the App Store (iOS) or Google Play Store (Android). Download and install it. The app is free.
Connect your phone to the camera's Wi-Fi
The DashView 60R broadcasts its own 5GHz Wi-Fi hotspot — it does not connect to your home or phone's mobile data. Go to your phone's Wi-Fi settings and look for a network starting with DASHVIEW_ followed by the unit's serial number. Connect to it.
Open the app and complete setup
Open the DashView app. It will connect automatically to the camera and walk you through initial configuration. You can also access live view from both cameras to verify angles before driving.
Key settings to configure in the app:
- Date and time: Set correctly so footage timestamps are accurate
- G-sensor sensitivity: How hard an impact triggers footage lock. Medium is a good default for urban driving.
- Loop recording: Enable this. The camera automatically overwrites the oldest footage when the card fills.
- WDR (Wide Dynamic Range): Enable this. Balances exposure in tunnels, bright sunlight, and night driving.
- Speed camera warnings: The built-in GPS provides alerts for fixed speed and red-light cameras. Enable in the app.
Featured Products
The DashView 60R: Australia's Sharpest Front and Rear Dash Cam
DashView 60R
4K Ultra HD front camera and 2K Super HD rear camera. Sony Starvis sensor. Built-in GPS. Parking mode with included hardwire kit. 64GB SD card included.
- 4K 30fps front + 2K 25fps rear, 150/140 degree wide angle
- Sony Starvis sensor for low-light performance
- Built-in GPS with speed and red-light camera alerts
- 5GHz Wi-Fi, manage everything via the DashView app
- Supercapacitor — survives harsh Australian temperatures
- Hardwire kit included for parking mode
- 64GB MLC High Endurance Micro SD card included
iGO CAM 90R
4K front and Full HD rear with a built-in 3.16" LCD screen. Magnetic slide bracket for easy transfers between vehicles. No app required to view footage.
- 4K front + Full HD 1080p rear camera
- 3.16" built-in LCD colour screen
- Magnetic slide bracket — moves between vehicles easily
- Supercapacitor for Australian climate reliability
- Speed and red-light camera warnings
- Parking mode with hardwire kit (sold separately)
Hardwiring for Parking Mode
The step that keeps your dash cam running while parked.
Locate your vehicle's fuse box
Most vehicles have a primary fuse box under the dashboard on the driver's side and a secondary one in the engine bay. For dash cam hardwiring, always use the interior fuse box — not the engine bay. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual or the fuse box cover diagram to identify fuse locations.
Identify a switched ACC fuse
Use your fuse tester with the ignition OFF, then ON, to find a fuse that is only live when the ignition is on. Common candidates include the cigarette lighter, radio, or interior lights. You need one that:
- Shows power with the ignition ON
- Shows no power with the ignition OFF
- Has a spare slot next to it for the add-a-fuse connector
Connect the hardwire kit
The hardwire kit uses an add-a-fuse connector — a piggyback device that slots into the existing fuse slot alongside the current fuse, with a new mini fuse for the dash cam circuit. No cutting or splicing is required.
- Remove the existing fuse from the slot using fuse pliers or a flat tool
- Plug the original fuse into the top position of the add-a-fuse connector
- Insert the mini fuse (included in the hardwire kit, typically 5A) into the side position
- Push the add-a-fuse back into the fuse slot
- Connect the hardwire kit's lead to the add-a-fuse connector
Route the hardwire cable to the camera
Route the hardwire kit's USB output cable from the fuse box up the A-pillar trim and along the headliner to the front camera position, following the same path as the cigarette lighter cable — or replacing it. Tuck it neatly behind the trim panels as before.
Plug the USB end into the female USB-C socket on the splitter cable (the same slot the cigarette lighter cable used). Remove the cigarette lighter cable — you no longer need it.
Enable parking mode in the DashView app
In the DashView app, go to Settings and enable Parking Mode. Set the G-sensor sensitivity for parked detection — slightly higher than driving mode is typical, because stationary vibrations from wind or minor knocks should trigger recording but normal ambient vibration should not.
Test it: turn the ignition off and tap the bonnet or door. The DashView 60R should wake from standby within a few seconds and begin recording. The LED indicator on the front camera confirms it is in parking mode when the ignition is off.
Common Issues
Troubleshooting Common Install Problems
The rear camera shows no image
Check the proprietary connector between the rear camera cable and the USB-C splitter cable. It needs to seat firmly until it clicks. A partially-seated connection produces no feed. Also check the cable has not been kinked or pinched in a door seal or trim panel during routing.
The camera falls off the windscreen
The adhesive bracket requires a perfectly clean, grease-free surface. Remove the bracket, clean with IPA, dry completely, and reapply with firm pressure for 60 seconds. Cold weather reduces adhesive strength — if the temperature is below 10°C, warm the windscreen slightly with the car's defroster before applying.
The Wi-Fi connection drops when CarPlay is active
Your phone can only hold one Wi-Fi connection at a time. Wireless CarPlay uses the same 5GHz band as the DashView 60R's hotspot. To access footage while using CarPlay, use a wired CarPlay connection (Lightning or USB-C to your head unit) which frees the phone's Wi-Fi for the DashView connection.
Parking mode drains the battery
Confirm you hardwired to a switched ACC fuse, not a permanent live circuit. The hardwire kit's voltage protection circuit should prevent deep discharge, but a constant live connection bypasses this protection. If the problem persists with a switched fuse, check the ground connection — a poor ground can cause erratic power draw.
The rear camera angle is off
The bracket adhesive holds permanently once pressed — but the camera itself is removable from the bracket. If you need to adjust the angle, you can re-seat the camera on the bracket to fine-tune within a few degrees. For larger corrections, remove the bracket with a heat gun (or hair dryer) to soften the adhesive, then reposition.
Know Your Limits
When to Get Professional Help
Most of the DashView 60R install is DIY-friendly. Two scenarios where a professional is worth considering:
Fuse box hardwiring
If you're not confident identifying fuse types and using a fuse tester, paying a car audio shop $60–$80 to do only the hardwire step while you handle the rest is a reasonable split.
Hatchback rear cable routing
Passing the cable through the body-to-hatch grommet on some vehicles requires removing the rear trim completely. If your hatch trim is complex (embedded speaker grilles, complex clips), a professional can do this faster without breaking clips.
Common Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I install a dash cam myself?
Yes. The plug-in install (cigarette lighter power, no parking mode) is beginner-friendly and takes 30–45 minutes. The hardwired install for parking mode is intermediate level — you need to identify a switched ACC fuse in your fuse box. If you're not comfortable with that step, most car audio shops will do only the hardwire for $60–$80.
How long does it take to install a front and rear dash cam?
For a plug-in install with no hardwiring: 30–45 minutes. For a full hardwired install with parking mode: 60–90 minutes. The longest part is routing the rear camera cable from the front windscreen along the headliner and down the rear pillar to the back window.
How much does it cost to have a dash cam installed?
Professional installation typically costs $80 to $200 depending on the shop and the complexity of the install. If you do it yourself using the included kit, the extra cost is $0. If you do the camera mounting yourself and only pay a professional for the hardwire step, most shops charge $60–$80 for that part alone.
Do I need to hardwire a dash cam?
Only if you want parking mode. Hardwiring connects the dash cam directly to the vehicle's fuse box so it stays powered after the ignition is off. If you only want coverage while driving, the cigarette lighter socket is sufficient and much simpler to set up. The DashView 60R includes both a cigarette lighter cable and a hardwire kit in the box.
Where should I mount the front dash cam?
Behind the rear-view mirror, in the top 5 cm of the windscreen. This position is within the legal zone in all Australian states and hides the camera from outside view. Position the lens so it can see past the mirror and has a clear view of the road ahead. Make sure it sits within the swept area of the windscreen wipers.
Where should the rear dash cam be mounted?
Top centre of the rear windscreen, angled slightly downward. This position captures vehicles behind the car, number plates, and the full rear field of view. On hatchbacks and wagons, mount on the tailgate glass — not the fixed body glass — so it moves with the hatch when it opens.
Will hardwiring a dash cam void my car warranty?
In Australia, adding an aftermarket accessory does not automatically void your vehicle warranty. However, if incorrect wiring causes damage to the vehicle's electrical system, the dealer may decline warranty coverage for that specific damage. Using the included hardwire kit (no cutting or splicing, add-a-fuse connector only) and connecting to a correct switched ACC fuse minimises this risk.
Can I connect a dash cam wirelessly to a rear camera?
The DashView 60R's rear camera connects via a physical cable — it is not a wireless connection. The cable runs along the headliner and down the rear pillar. This is the standard approach for front and rear dash cam systems and provides a more reliable, lower-latency connection than wireless alternatives.
